{Shikoku Hachijūhachikasho Meguri}

--Thoughts during the Third Week--

It took 15 minutes to get my bentō this morning as there were a lot of road construction workers getting their lunch as well. After getting the bentō for lunch and two onigiro for breakfast, i was off for the climb out of Kuma valley. It't a long hour and forty-five minute climb to the top of the pass to the north. It' not a hard climb and virtually all of it is on a sidewalk on the side of the road, but it is unrelentingly up, up, and more up.

At 9:00 i was at the top and pushed over the edge to start the just as long drop back down and into Matsuyama City. It starts on a mountain trail and because of the recent rains, the trail was in bad shape. Parts of it still had water running down the middle of the trail, other parts were just mud, and other parts were just wet. After about an hour on that, i migrated to asphalt roads way back in the country side as i continued to work my way towards the city.

The clouds finally started to break about 10:00, and by 10:30, or so, there was more sun than clouds. By the end of the day, there were no clouds in sight. Since i lost my hat yesterday on the way back from Iwayaji, my head is burnt to a crisp now. The bell that i keep tied to my pack broke on the way down to Matsuyama today as well, so whether i like it or not, my pack is shedding weight of its own.

Stopped at a lot of temples today, but didn't run across any other walking henro. Seemed sort of strange given how many i've been around up to now. I sat and ate a leisurly lunch at Temple 47 when i got there a little after 11:00. Temples are always serene places to eat a lunch. Except for Ishiteji, that is. As usual, it was a mad house today with lots of bus henro and lots of other people on top of that. The priest at Temple 46 gave me my stamp as settai. We had chatted for about 5 minutes while he was signing my book, and after i gave him my money, he said "Why don't we make this settai." I thanked him and he told me where the walking trail was, and then i was off.

I tried to get a reservation at the only ryokan listed in the area of Dōgō Onsen, but a message said their phone wasn't working. So, i had to get a reservation at another business hotel. It costs only ¥4,000, but i prefer a minshuku or ryokan for the bath and meals. I stopped at a convenience store and bought a couple of sandwiches and some OJ just before checking in for the night.

I was surprised to see that i took 57 pictures today when i downloaded them to my computer. Tom was right, with a better camera i'm more inclined to take more pictures. I now stop and snap anything that catches my eye. This camera is light years better than the one i had. If you're reading this, Tom, thanks again.

--Thursday, 4/26/07--
It's really a wonderful thing how the mind reacts when you slow down enough so that as you walk by a log lying on the side of the road, you see the one solitary ant crawling around on the log looking for a late lunch. Certainly it couldn't have been dinner as 3:30 is much too early for that. As you zoom by in a car you most likely don't even see the log. It's only when you put two feet in boots and slow down to a walk that the world slows down enough for you to get a more detailed look at what's going with the inhabitants we normally don't see. The ant didn't look to be in any hurry, but it didn't look to be goofing off either. Couldn't say as much for myself at the time. :-)

It was bright, sunny, and warm when i checked out of the hotel at 7:00. Went across the street to the convenience store and bought breakfast and looked for sun screen lotion. They didn't have it, so i ate breakfast and headed to the supermarket down the road. They didn't have any either, but i bought a bunch of bananas for lunch. I did find another convenience store that had some sun screen lotion after another 45 minute walk and started using that. I'm already so burnt, that it may be too late, but it's worth a try. It's amazing i'm so burnt, given that so many days up to now have been overcast and/or rainy.

I got completely lost this morning. I had no idea where i was and was so lost the locals couldn't even figure out how to get me to the trail. I finally got to where they could tell me how to get to a post office that was marked, and if i could get there, i knew i would be OK. I stopped and asked three separate people to keep me on the road to that post office, and it took me most of an hour to get there. From there, i was back on the road as indicated on the map. I don't have a clue how i went so far wrong. I very rarely get that completley discombobulated.

Later in the day, as i was heading up an incline, a farmer came out of his field to tell me i was on the wrong road again. This time i really didn't believe him. I knew i was right and he was wrong becuse i could still see the last landmark that was indicated on the map. Well, he was pretty insistent, and my gut told me to listen to him so i thanked him and went back down the hill. He told me to go about 200 m (220 yds) and look for a right turn, but sure enough i found it before that, and just after that landmark i said i could still see. If he hadn't stopped me i would have merrily walked a half dozen km (4 mi) out of the way before worrying. I shiver now just at the thought.

A woman stopped her car right in the middle of the road this morning to give me settai of two cans of apple juice. The cars behind her were not at all thrilled with her decision, so she didn't get out of her car until all of them had passed around her. When i stopped at the next temple, i met one of the henro that had stayed at the lodging Tom and i had (one of the henro the owner had yelled at) so i passed one of the cans of juice on to him. Besides that henro, i played leapfrog with several other henro today. There seem to be about 4 of us all working our way around at somewhat the same pace. I walk faster than they do, so end up ahead. Then while i'm sitting around taking one of my breaks and enjoying the weather, one after the other of them will pass my by.

About an hour and a half from where i am staying, i knew i was ahead of schedule, and didn't want to check in until 4:00, so i sat in front of a convenience store and drank a bottle of orange juice to kill time and rest my feet. Several henro passed me while i was sitting there, including the one i gave the apple juice to earlier in the day. He stopped just long enough to give me a bottle of something that he was given as settai just down the road. It was one of the many health drinks that Japanese men seem to love. They are very small, maybe about 4-5 oz, packed with one or another vitamin supplement, and terribly sweet. I really don't like them as they taste like medicine to me. I implied that i wasn't thrilled with it, but he insisted, so i thanked him........ and threw it away after he left. Sorry.

An hour from my lodging a woman came out and ran me down to bring me back to a building that offers free tea, omochi (rice cakes), and cookies to walking henro.

It's funny, i have zero recollections of the temples and roads in this part of the walk, yet there was one hair pin turn coming off the hill as i approached the town where i am staying that i very clearly remember. As i approached it, i knew exactly what the view would be and how soon after i would find the next turn in the road. And it was exactly as i remembered. I wonder why this corner remains in the one working memory neuron i have left while the rest of this prefecture is long gone?

Here's another funny story. I was walking about 200 meters (220 yards) behind two other henro that were headed to the same lodging as i was. We were headed towards the last climb of the day, and i noticed that after they had started the climb, two women who had been inspecting the flowers along the side of the road tried to yell at them, but they didn't hear them. Since there was a 'Y' iin the road right at that point, i immediatley suspected that the two henro had gone left when they should have gone right, so i got out my map.

When i got to the two women, i asked and they pointed out that the road on the right was marked as the henro trail and told me to take that. I asked where the road on the left (the one the other two henro took) went, and they both told me they had no idea, it was a new road. I asked if it might go the same place as the road on the right, and they said they still had no idea; neither had ever been on it as it was a new road. I asked if the road on the right, was the one indicated on the map, and did it go to Asanami, where i'm staying. They told me they didn't know that either — neither had been past the Daishi Hall a little up the road, and then always returned.

I found all of this surprising as both women appeared to be in their fifties, and i would think that at that age, they would be a little more widely traveled. We're not talking the countryside here, we were on the very close outskirts of a major town, so these aren't old farm women who had never left home.

Anyway, i took the road on the right like i was supposed to, passed the Daishi Hall, and then, just a little further down the road, the road i was on merged with the new road that the other henro had taken and we were all back on the same road again. The other two never even knew that they had missed a turn.

I am getting so lazy. When i went in to take a bath tonight, there were two doors, so i chose the first one. It was only after i had gotten in and sat down to wash off that i noticed that the bath was empty. Since i know the two other guests had a bath, the second room must be the one they had used, and the one with a bath full of nice, relaxing hot water. But, i was just too lazy to get up and move to the other room so i just took a shower where i was and called that good enough for tonight. I don't know how i even manage to get around as lazy as i have become.

The washing machine costs ¥200, but i'm going to do clothes anyway. It is really hot outside, and i sweated like that proverbial pig today.

Tomorrow is going to be a problem. There is a slew of minshuku at about the 22 km (14 mi) mark after leaving here, but after that, there isn't anything for another dozen or more km more. I'll ask at dinner to see if the owner knows of any lodging not indicated on the maps, but if not, it is going to be a very, very short day tomorrow.

After writing the last paragraph, i went down to dinner, and while there talked to the couple who are also here. They reminded me that because of the Golden Week holiday, everyone in Japan is on the road from Friday night through Monday night of next week. That means that during this period, lodging is full and getting free rooms is hard to do. They told me that i should use their cell phone and make some reservations tonight, right after dinner, and not wait until tomorrow to find a public phone.

Since they had already had problems finding reservations when they made a weeks worth yesterday, the husband suggested that i just call the places that they had found free rooms at and call them first. He said he had called all the normal places and been told that they were full. So, i called the shukubō at Temple 58, which is just over 32 km (20 mi) from here, and was told it was OK and then called an onsen about 32 km (20 mi) after that and was told it was OK there as well. That will make for two long days, especially the second, since it entails some more climbing, but at least i have somewhere confirmed.

Both reservations surprised me. Shukubō are notoriously hard to get rooms at because they are usually packed to the gills with bus henro. And, given all the bus henro sure to be on the road this weekend, ... well i'm surprised. As for the onsen, it is going to cost me ¥8,200 with 2 meals included, and it's a little out of the way, but it's a reservation so i'm not going to complain. That takes me through Saturday night so i need to look for rooms for Sunday, Monday, and possibly Tuesday night sometime tomorrow. Since i'm finishing on Tuesday, i could always just find a train or bus and work my way to Takamatsu City and look for a business hotel there if i need to. But, the husband toinght told me that all will be back to nromal on Tuesday, so i think i only need to worry about Sunday and Monday. I'll try and make those reservations from public phones during my walk tomorrow.

Another delicious meal tonight. The only odd part was the hambuger patty in place of a piece of fish. Don't get me wrong, there was still some sashimi, a small lobster leg, and some broiled unagi (eel), but instead of one more type of fish, there was that hamburger. Then there was the miso soup, tofu, salad, some kind of something in a crab shell mixed with small pasta noodles, and a pot of rice that had been cooked with a few vegetables and some sliced & diced octopus. Ohhhhhh, it was all sooooooo delicious.

While taking a break today sitting on the ground in front of a convnience store, i borrowed today's newspaper from the recycle bin. The weather report says all sun and high temperatures of 22* C (72* F) for Friday and Saturday. On Sunday and Monday, it predicts the same temperatures, but partly cloudy, and on Tuesday, cloudy with a 40% chance of rain.

--Friday, 4/27/07--
It started out another bright sunny day, but by 10:00, the skys had clouded over. It was still bright enough to cast a shadow, but not a very bright one. One problem of walking along the coast is that when the winds are strong there is nothing to block them. For most of the morning i was battling a mild direct headwind and it definitely slowed me down. In addition, it cools you down as the sweat that builds up from walking with a pack evaporates in the wind. There were a few times i considered pulling out a long-sleeve shirt, but after a few hours the winds went away so there was really no need.

When we were through with breakfast this morning, the woman who had prepared our food gave us each a bag of candy as settai. She apologized that it was just more that we had to carry, but hoped we could enjoy eating it later in the day.

Late in the morning, about 10:00, or so, i heard someone call out from behind me. When i turned around, a man was motioning for me to come back. When i did, he invited me into his store to have a cup of coffee and some omochi (pounded rice cake withe read bean paste inside) as settai. After i was done with that, the woman who actually did the work in the store (and looked to be his daughter) gave me a cup of green tea. I sat around for about 20 minutes talking about this and that with him and another man who happened to be there. The daughter didn't say 10 words. The coffee hit the spot. Whenever i'm here, i miss my morning coffee. Badly.

I bought a bentō for lunch and ate it while sitting at Temple 54 (Enmeiji). From there it was a fairly easy walk for the rest of the afternoon — until i got to the bottom of the hill going up to Temple 58 (Senyūji), that is. Then it was uphill all the way, with the last 100 m (333 ft) beign steep stairs. I was pooped when i got here just after 4:00.

As i was walking to Temple 57 (Eifukuji) a woman pulled her car over just in front of me. After letting the other cars go by, she got out and asked if i was a walking henro. When i confirmed that i was, she gave me settai of ¥1,000 ($8.50). She stood there with an expectant look on her face, so i knew she wanted an Ofuda (the name cards we carry and most leave at temples). I had filled in my name and address (America, Chicago) on several cards this morning, so i was prepared, luckily. Once i gave her the Ofuda, we bowed to each other about a half dozen times and she got in her car, did a u-turn, and headed back to where she was going.

I'm staying in the shukubō at Temple 58 (Senūji) tonight. I was surprised to get the reservation, but very happy. As you walk in the front door, one of the first things to catch your attention is a life size (maybe slightly bigger than life size) statue of a Japanese woman. Given what looks to be a fairly modern and fasionable hair cut, i'd say it's supposed to represent a modern Japanese woman. Given that this is the lodging house at a Buddhist temple, i was slightly suprised that the woman didn't have a stitch of clothing on. Then again, in Japan, monks can, and usually do (frequently do?) get married and raise families. It is perfectly acceltable and normal, so it's not as if naked women are strangers to Japanese temples.

Of her many attractive features, though, i'd have to say two caught my attention the most. I'm talking about her feet, of course. The second toe on each of her feet was longer than her big toe, a problem i have suffered with all my life. While i won't get any blisters on my feet this year, i will have sore and bruised second toes from having them crammed into the toes of my boots on all of the downhill descents. I have to buy all my boots and running shoes based on the length of this toe rather than the big toe like most people do. Now i see that i'm not alone. :-)

The lodging is just like a rather fancy hotel and is only 7 years old. All wood flooring throughout the building. Wood walls up to my waist height, and then plaster above that. Very clean and very nice. And the views from all of the windows are magnificent. We're right on the top of the mountain a few hundred meters (> 600 ft) above sea level and looking down over the mountains and the lights in the towns below. They put me in the room called Kōbō and i couldn't ask for more. It even has it's own private bathroom (with a bath as well, even though i used the common bath downstairs that is shared by all.).

They introduced me at dinner for reasons i'll never understand. When i checked in they asked me to sign the guest book so they new my name and that i came from Chicago. During the introduction they asked how long i had lived here, and when i told them i didn't, but had come over to walk the Ehime Prefecture portion of the trail, i got a good round of applause. :-)

Dinner was shōjinryōri, an all vegetable and tōfu diet found at temples throughout Japan. At the more famous temples like those at Mt. Kōya and Kyōto, it is delicious. Tonight's dinner rivals anything i have ever had on Mt. Kōya. It was so good, it made "delicious" sound boring. Morning services are at 6:00 tomorrow morning over in the Hondō. Breakfast is after that at 7:00 back in the shukubō.

That means a late start and i have 32 km (20 mi) to go tomorrow. If i'm lucky, i'll get out by 7:30. If i'm lucky. Oh well, at least it's not on Sunday morning when i have to tackle the 745 m (2,483 ft) climb of to Temple 60 (Yokomineji) in the first 8 km (5 mi) of the day — and then have another 22 km (14 mi) to go after that.

I think i've talked about this before (in my '99 journal?), but i've been thinking about the henro i see that drive up to the temples in their car or on their motorcycle, offer very devout prayers, then get their book stamped and zoom off to the next temple. While at the temple they are as devout as any henro i see, certainly more devout than i am. I usually say that they are missing the point of the pilgrimage, but am really not sure that is being fair.

I hate classifying people, but in this case i think i can say that there are two types of henro. Those that think the solution to their problems and the answers to their major questions in life will come from someone outside of themselves, and those who think that the only solutions and answers will come from within themselves. In Japanese that's tariki and jiriki. "Ta" means other, "Ji" means the self, and "Riki" means power.

Just as there are many devout Christians that believe that their salvation and the solution to their problems can only come from God, i.e., a god external to themselves, there are many devout henro who believe that only the various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas in the temple hondōs, or Kōbō Daishi himself, can provide the solutions to their problems. Or can explain why this crazy world is the way it is. These are the tariki believers. Then there are people like me who think that is nonsense and see no one or nobody outside of themselves as the provider of wisdom, power, assistance, etc. We are the jiriki believers.

For us jiriki types, the whole point of this pilgrimage is the discipline we subject ourselves to in the walk around the island, in the walk between the temples, in the climb and descent of mountain after mountain, during the walks in pouring rain, on the days when it is freezing cold when you first set out in the morning, on the days when the afternoon sun wants to bake you on the side of the road like another piece of road kill, during step after step on feet that are killing you. It's this discipline that shows you who you are and what you are made of. It's in this discipline that you slowly come to see answers to questions you ask of your self and of the world. It's in this discipline that your mind slows down to the point where the normal screens that you see reality through start to turn transparent. It's in this discipline that your body and mind begen to meld into one living organism and becomes alive, as distinct from just existing and going through the motions for another paycheck.

For the tariki types, all this discipline is just a bunch of nonsense. It's a waste of time. The only place help can come from is at the temples themselves, and Kōbō Daishi and the various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas don't care one wit how you get there — as long as you get there and sincerely beg for help at the alter.

So, we are a pretty mutually incomprehensible crowd. The tariki's look at me and see my complete disregard for normal protocol at the temples and wonder why i even bother coming over to Shikoku. I look at them and wonder why they waste their time running around between temples when it's their normal life that they should be working on.

And that's where i'm going to leave the discussion. I'm not going to say i'm right and they're wrong or vice versa. I can't. I have my beliefs and the other's have theirs. But it does help me understand the difference between the various henro i meet here on the trail.

--Saturday, 4/28/07--
Today was, without doubt, the hardest day i've had so far and will probably be the hardest i'll have this year.

I didn't get out of the lodging until about 7:20 because of the late breakfast at Temple 58. After leaving though, it was all downhill to the first temple of the day so i made pretty good time.

As i was getting to Temple 59 (Kokubunji), i saw my firs two begging henro. One was about a half block away from the temple and the other was standing right at the bottom of the steps leading up into the compound. Both were Japanese and looked to be around 60 years old. The first looked like he may have a room to sleep in each night, but the second looked a little rougher, or weather worn, and looked as if he spent a lot of time outdoors. Both simply stood there with little bowls in their hands as people went by, which weren't many. I didn't ask, but i'd be curious to know how much they can bring in each day.

After leaving Temple 59, i was on my way for a leisurly walk to Temple 60 when i woman stopped me and told me that her flowers were in full bloom &mdash or something to that effect. She had been growing roses for five years and they completely dominated the front of her property. We chatted for about five minutes and i snapped a few pictures, and then i said i had to leave.

After taking about five steps down the road, she called after me and asked if i had free time. Did i want some coffee? I did. I always do. But, i didn't know if i had a lot of time, so i told her i had about 10 minutes. She said that wasn't enough and suggested 15 minutes. I did a quick mental calculation of some sort and said OK, i could do that. An hour later i left and headed back down the road.

When we moved to the garden behind her house, she ran in and brought out a very traditional Japanese umbrella and set it up so that we could sit in the shade. She also laid out a bright red blanket on the bench were we sat. It was very picturesque. She did give me coffee, and she brewed it while i waited, so it was delicious. With it she served me some kind of Japanese sweet, which was also delicious. After that, though, i had more snacks, more coffee, more snacks, and some green tea, and then some final snacks. And we talked about anything under the sun. She is an artist, both her parents taught at the local elementary school, but their passions were art as well. Her father was a painter and her mother did, and taught, calligraphy. My host started off studying piano at a music college in Tokyo, but it was decided that her fingers were too short for a professional life in the field so she quit an moved over to an art college instead. She's been an artist ever since and seems to love her life.

After all the words about slowing down, i might as well have been in a car for as fast as i wal walking. After leaving my one hour break, i knew that i had to make up that lost hour simetime of the next 5 hours in order to get to where i had a reservation for the night before dinner. I knew right up front that that meant i would no longer have a "leisurly" day. So, i dug my MP3 player out of my pack, put on my running songs, tuned out the world, and stepped up the pace.

Being a lazy sort of guy, i didn't look forward to a five hour power walk, especially since Bangai 10 involved a climb, so i really had to focus to keep myself from slowing down. That meant much of the next hours went something like this:

Focus. Don't watch the scenery, just focus on walking. Focus.

Then a thought pops into my head about something i see and a conversation starts to take place in my head and my legs start to slow down. I fight it by telling myself to focus. Stop thinking, just listen to the words of the music and keep moving. Focus on each and every word. Don't miss one. Keep your focus on moving forward. And, all seems to be going well; i'm still making good time.

Then my left leg starts to whine. Hey, you up there. I don't know what you think you're doing, but we're dying down here. How about a break sometime.

Focus. Focus. Don't listen to the complainers, just listen to the music and keep focused. Keep moving.

Hey, you listening to me up there? You're killing us down here. How about a break.

Focus. Focus. Focus. Ignore the complainer and he'll go away. The song list has ended, so restart it and listen to the songs again...... for the fifth time.

Yo. Brainy. Give us a break would you?

Focus on the music. Focus on the music. .... Keep moving. ....

At sometime in early afternoon, i did have to slow down and give the legs a break because an elder lady called me into her house to give me settai of many little "things" to hang on my walking stick. I don't even know how to describe them. She hand makes them from cloth, and they are little faces with eyes that move. She ties one on my walking stick and then hands me a dozen more to put in my pack. She seems to think they will bring me good luck because of the effort she took to make them and apparently i need that.

After leaving and turning on my running songs again, i had just gotten back into the groove when two junior high school students came by on their bikes. I slowed down to spend about 10 minutes talking to them and we talked mostly in Japanese, but i gave them the chance to practice their 5 sentences of textbook English as well. When they said good bye, i turned the music back on and hustled and got to B10 at 2:30. From there i continued and checked in at the onsen (hot springs) where i'm staying at 4:30. I got there very, very tired and with tired feet and legs. It was a long day.

I'm staying in an onsen because i was told all the normal lodging was already full. The bath is large and great, and this is certainly a treat for my legs, but it will be expensive.

After my bath and starting some laundry, i was told i should go out and see the koi pond. It was amazing. Some of them are over 40 years old and about 2 ft (61 cm) long. They were multicolored and beautiful.

After dinner at 6:00, i was too tired to take another bath, which many guests do since that's why they came to the onsen in the first place, so i just went back to my room to relax at 7:00. I was too tired to type, so watched the news on TV and went to sleep.

High today was 24* C (75* F) but it felt hotter.

I am exhausted....

--Sunday, 4/29/07--
Up at 6:00 to repack and brush my teeth, then down to breakfast at 6:30. Impossible to get up. Still tired.

That summarizes my whole morning routine. I was still exhausted when i got up this morning. When my alarm went off, my brain just wouldn't kick in and recognize it for what it was, so i laid there for several minutes wondering just what the heck that stupid noise was. When i did figure it out, i got up and was downstairs for the standard breakfast at 6:30.

I paid my bill and checked out just before 7:00 and headed the kilometer and a half (1 mi) back to the henro michi. I stopped on the way at a convenience store and threw away the bentō i bought for yesterday's lunch but never ate. Then i bought two sandwiches for lunch today and headed out to start the climb up to Yokumineji.

I couldn't remember how long it took me to climb up to Temple 60 (Yokomineji) in '99, but i know i stopped for the night right at Temple 62, so i feared it would take all morning. Since this year i planned to walk an hour past Temple 64, i wondered what the heck was going through my mind. According to the map, the temple is at 745 m (2,444 ft), but since i was starting all the way up at 30 m (98 ft), i really didn't have all that far too climb. Even so, it was a long, slow climb up to the top and i was pleasantly surprised to get there at 9:40.

A lot of the trail going up to Yokomineji was washed out several years ago during a typhoon. I had heard about it, but it was still amazing to see all the damage first hand. There are still trees everywhere, and they apparently had to rebuild all the small foot bridges that criss cross over the stream you follow most of the way up. At one point they must have decided they couldn't repair it, or just haven't had the time to do it, because they have blocked off the old trail and you follow a new short section right up the fall line. When i say "they" haven't repaired it, i wonder who "they" are. Is it the local governement? The temple? A combination? Volunteers and volunteer donors? Maintaining the trail portion of the walk all around the island seems to be a completely voluntary thing, with time, money, and materials all coming from people who just want to contribute. I don't think there is any "official" support.

Temple 61 (Kōonji) looks like any regular church you might find in the US. It's built of cement, but looks reasonbly fashionable, the floor is carpeted, and everyone sits on regular seats, the kind you might find in at the cinema. I was told once back in 1999 that after the last fire they decided that cement burns much slower than wood, so opted to build it out of that instead of rebuilding, yet again, a traditional wood temple.

Had my picture taken with two very cute girls who appeared to be university students this afternoon. They were just so tickled to be able to stand with the foreigner it was funny. I never even thought to have them take another picture with my camera, so can't even show it off.

Got to my lodging about 4:30 and checked in. I'm staying in a very old inn, but when i asked how old, all she would say was that it was "very old." I have to duck whenever i walk through any doorway they are so low. After relaxing with a cup of tea, i fell asleep on the floor until the owner came up and woke me to tell me that i could take a bath. After that, i started some laundry and went back to my room to wait for dinner.

As usual, dinner was delicious. Suzuki sashimi (i don't know what that is in English yet), a plate full of gyoza (pot stickers), a plate of take (bamboo) and takenoko (fresh, just picked baby bamboo), another plate of some other white fish, as much rice as i could eat, miso soup, and a slice of watermelon. All washed down with several glasses of water and a very cold beer. Ahhhhhhhh........

My feet and legs are really tired. Not sore, just tired.

The reason i love walking on Shikoku is that it is such a rural part of the country. There is nowhere else i have been in Japan where i can spend so much time out in the countryside. I'm going to miss it when i finish this second time around. Because it's the last time around.

Today's high was also 24* C (75* F) with bright sunny skies. I'm burnt to a crisp. Tomorrow they say it will be clear in the morning, but clouding over sometime in the afternoon.

It's 7:30. and i'm laying here watching the Yakult Swallows playing the Yomiuri Giants on TV, but i don't know how long i'm going to make it tonight. I'm pretty sure i'll be asleep before 9:00 again tonight. I am so, so tired. Walking in this heat on the side of the road tires me out.

--Monday, 4/30/07--
Another bright day, but not as hot as the last few days. I think they said today's temperature was supposed to be about 22* C (72* F). After the standard breakfast at 6:30, i was out the door a little before 7:00. The first thing i did was to find a public phone at the train station about a hald kilometer (quarter mile) from where i stayed. Once i found that, i made a reservation for tonight and one for Tuesday night as well.

When i called for Tuesday night's reservation, the woman at first told me no. She asked where i was starting from and when i told her, she said that wasn't very far from Temple 65, and that i should be able to walk further than just to her lodging. I told her that i knew that, but that i was stopping for the year at Temple 65, so i had no where else to walk. In that case, she said, i could check in anytime after 3:00. I feel pretty lucky to get these reservations. Golden Week holidays continue here and the first lodging i called for each night told me that they were already full.

I only had to walk about 25 km (15.8 mi) today, and there seemed to be only one minor hill, so i knew as i left this morning that if i didn't want to check in early i had to walk slowly. So, after making my reservations, i stopped at a convenience store and bought a couple of sandwiches for lunch and a snack and OJ for a morning snack. I walked at a snails pace while i ate and drank those, and then proceeded to knock off the first 15 km (9.5 mi) of what i had to walk in three hours. Knowing that that was too fast, at about 10:00 i took a break at a grocery store and sat on the curb long enough to eat an ice cream cone and look over my map.

A little later, when i was back on the trail (actually, on the side of Highway 11), a man pulled over in his car and gave me settai of a can of coffee. As i have probably said many times before, i just can't drink this stuff as it is too sweet. But, to try again anyhow, i drank about 1/3 of it and then threw the rest out. I couldn't finish it.

From there i walked another hour and stopped for coffee before seeing a coffee shop and deciding to stop to kill some more time. I think it took me 30 minutes to drink one small cup of coffee, and in the meantime, several other henro came in for lunnch.

From there, i walked another half hour or more and then stopped on the side of the road for lunch sometime just after noon. I sat on the curb with my feet hanging over a ditch that feeds into a river just beyond. I think i sat there for about 45 minutes just enjoying my sandwiches, the sun, the sound of the crickets and frogs, the sound of the wind in the trees across the river, and the sound of the water running in the river. It was the epitome of a lazy day. While i sat there, a lady who was working in the field across the street tried to give me yet another can of coffee as settai. I know you shouldn't refuse settai, but i didn't know who i would give it to if i took it, so i told her i couldn't drink it and told her thank you anyway. She seemed to understand.

After lunch, i walked until 2:00 and then stopped at Bangai 12 (Enmeiji). While sitting around there, the 6 year old daughter of the sister of the man who signs the nōkyōchō came over to greet me and we then talked for about an hour. I can spend hours taking to little kids. Yūki was very proud to show me her frog and a butterfly she had caught behind the hondō. She later gave me a can of apple juice, but i'm assuming that it came from her mother.

After another hour sitting around at the temple, i left at 3:15 for the 10 minute walk to tonight's lodging. Since i was early, i layed around in my room until 4:30 when i was told i could take a bath. After that, i then layed around until dinner at 6:00. I've been doing a lot of loafing today. :-)

While trying to look through the glass door into the temple today, because of the angle of the sun all i could see was my reflection in the glass of the door. If i really focused, i could see inside, but it took a lot of work. I had to find a dark spot in the reflection, focus on the interior through that spot, and then if i kept that focus i could move my sight around and make out the interior of the temple through my relfection.

That struck me as very much analogous to life in general. What you really want to see in life, what you really should be looking for in life, is blocked by the reflections of I/me/mine that block our view almost all of the time. In order to see what is important, you have to learn to see through yourself. You have to learn to see past yourself. You have to learn to block yourself out. Only then can you see what is important — and that certainly isn't "you," it's the interior. When you are looking at any situation, ask yourself, "am i looking a my projections or am i really seeing through them and seeing what is truly there?"

Everyone is saying that it could rain all day tomorrow. I'm hoping for rain all night tonight, but only cloudy tomorrow. I think i'll be right based on the weather forcast i saw at dinner.

I have been playing leap frog with one guy in his mid-sixties for a week now. We first met at the first night's lodging that Tom and i stayed in. Since then, we have met, crossed paths, or stayed in the same lodging about every other night. The other day, when we figured it was our last time to meet, he asked for my email address, then we had lunch together and chatted for about a half hour. Last night he stopped for the night about an hour before i did, so i assumed we wouldn't meet again. Low and behold, when i checked in tonight, there he was again. Because i had walked so slowly he had caught up to me.

We chatted for a little at dinner again, but for the most part i kept out of the conversations because when i participate, it really slows everyone down. They can and do talk to me, but it is a much slower conversation than normal when everyone is just sitting around eating and drinking beer, and relaxing — i.e., being natural. Around 7:00, he came by my room and gave me some candy as my last settai for the trip. Then, just before 8:00, he he showed up again and asked if i knew anything about Nō. I told him that i knew it was a stage production like Kabuki, and had seen it a few times on NHK back in the states, but knew nothing else.

While he doesn't perform Nō on the stage, as a hobby he has been learning how to sing the parts (or sing the stories). He asked if i wanted to hear one, to which i told him "sure." Mind you, i'm already laying in my futon watching TV and typing this journal, but i turned off the TV and put my computer aside, and he put a zabuton at the foot of my futon, sat in very correct seiza, and proceeded to give me a concert. There he was, less than 60 cm (2 ft) away from me singing this wonderful story from one of the Nō dramas. Needless to say, i could never do that with anyone else, even if we had walked many km together on the same trail. I guess he thought it was important for me to hear.

Will finish the year at Temple 65 (Sankakuji), then walk down to the closest town (5 km/3 mi) and spend the night there at a ryokan near the train station. Wednesday morning i'll take a train to Takamatsu and then Tokushima, where i'll have dinner with David Moreton and his family at a great Tonkatsu restaurant. Have i mentioned that i love tonkatsu?

I can not believe that tomorrow is the last of 15 days of walking. How does it go by so fast?

--Tuesday, 5/1/07--
A complete waste of a day. I walked less than 13 km (8 mi) today and didn't even make the climb up to Temple 65 (Sankakuji). I loafed, and loafed, and then loafed again some more.

It was raining when i got up this morning, and was still raining when i left the lodging at about 7:30. When i paid my bill, the owner gave me ¥120 and told me to buy something cold to drink during the day. I used it as partial payment for some of the coffee i drank while killing time.

I walked just as slow as i possibly could, but it doesn't take long to cover 13 km, no matter how you do it. At about 10:00 i stopped for a cup of coffee to waste a little time. My goal was to get to Mishima around noon so i had plenty of time to sit around. I had already decided that i wasn't going to make the climb up to Temple 65 today. I have to go right by their front door to get to Bangai 13 next year, so i figured there was no reason to make the same climb twice. I'll start with Temple 65 when i do the last prefecture (Kagawa) and then continue straight on to Bangai 13 and 14 from there.

The rain stopped sometime around 9:30, but before that, the worst of situations occured. The sun came out sometime around 9:00, but it was still sprinkling for about a half hour. That meant, i still had to wear my rain siut to keep dry, but because the sun was out the temperature was climbing. Luckily this lasted only a half hour and then pulled over and repacked my rain gear. From there on it was a very pleasant morning.

I got completely lost going into Mishima City. I followed all the signs for Highway 11, but just never saw the train station i was looking for as a landmark. I finally asked at a gas station and was flabergasted when they told me i had walked too far. When i asked if i was on the road i thought i was, it turns out that that was my problem. I wasn't. I was on Highway 11, but i was supposed to be on Highway 11 Bypass — which wasn't noted as such on the map. Both simply said Highway 11, one in white and one in yellow. Go figure.

Anyhow, they told me to go back three stop lights and turn to the left, and at the top of that street i would run into the train station. They were right and i got there a little before noon. I stopped for lunch at a small restaurant across the street from the station and then when across the street to sit around the waiting room because i was told that i could check in after 3:00.

While sitting there i spent time talking to about a half dozen people who came over at various times and wanted to know if i was walking the pilgrimage. After that, we usually talked about this, that, and everything in between. One man came up and wanted to practice his English so we worked on that for a while. He's been studying for 5 years with a Japanese man who lived in the US for two years. That should send up red flags, but his English was passable, even though limited. After about 10 minutes, he shook my hand and said good bye. 3 minutes later he was back. He handed me a bag and said he had bought me a bottle of "Japanese alcohol" and a couple of snacks. There was nothing i could do except thank him and wish him a good day, and he was gone again before i could say any more. It turns out to be a big bottle of sake. Since i don't want to carry it home, i'll pass it on to David Moreon.

After sitting around until about 1:45, i headed out again in search of another cup of coffee. Killing time can be sooooo expensive in Japan. I cound a reataurant and sat there until about 2:45, at which time i headed back to the train station. After sitting there until 3:00, and talking to another man waiting around for someone to pick him up, i left to find my room at 3:00.

As i was setling into my room, the owner sat and wanted to talk for about 15 minutes about the other foreigners that had stayed here, and brought in the guest books from the past few years to see how many of them i knew. Luckily, i could honestly say that i had received email from one of them who did the walk last year. That seemed to make her happy.

By then it was 3:30, and she told me i should take my bath and start my laundry so i would have plenty of time to sit around and relax. She doesn't realize that that is all i have done today. On top of that, the bath wasn't all that hot, so i didn't sit around in there for that long. I still can't sit in a bath as hot as most Japanese seem able to tolerate, but i do like it hotter than most Americans probably like. You just get used to it when you sit in it every night of the week.

Breakfast is at 6:30 tomorrow morning, then it's off to the train station. I checked today and was told that it will cost about ¥5,000 to get to Tokushima City and will take about 2 hours; an hour to Takamatsu and then another hour to Tokushima City from there. That's assuming i take a limited express instead of local trains, whiich is what i'll do. According to the schedule the lady gave me at the station, there is a limited express to Takamatsu leaving at 7:11 and 7:39 so i'll catch one of those. I have to change trains at Takamatsu, so really have no idea when i'll arrive in Tokushima. Once there, i'll figure out what to do for the day besides find some lunch.

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